I feel like I’m still learning to surf, you know? And that’s one of the things that I think makes it so fun, because it’s not really – because I don’t do it competitively, I never feel like I’ve stopped learning. For me, it can lower my ambition, to go out and surf for a few hours, is so fulfilling and seems almost like an education. And you feel kind of completely at peace afterwards. I did notice how as my goal got smaller as I started surfing, my ambitions got smaller as I started surfing. But I don’t know if that’s a bad thing!

[Break]

Probably the most recent amazing thing that happened – I was out with a friend of mine, at a beach that we go to often. We have a pretty long whale season in California, and as we were paddling out, there was a whale making her way north, back towards Alaska. To be on a surfboard and to see that is almost hard to put into words.